How Can I Convince My Parents To Let Me Get A Pet Rat?

Posted by Big Rat on Campus on Dec 24, 2009 in Rat Answers | Subscribe

Hi! My family currently owns a dog, but I love animals, and really want a pet rat. I’m trying to raise the money to pay for it myself, and I’m doing research, but I don’t think it’s enough to convince my parents to let me get a rat. They don’t like rodents much, but when we had a hamster some years ago, they loved it. Now they won’t budge! How can I convince them?
Rat info would be nice too! 🙂 Also, please serious answers only!

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  • Morgan says:

    Corn is very bad for your rats and it should be avoided. They love being in groups not just alone. For more information go to google and enter all about PET rats. If you don’t add pet you might be disturbed.

  • Cerys Nelson says:

    how can i convince my mum 2 lrt me have 1. I have shown her pics of cute rats and told her nice facts.

  • Cerys says:

    thanks but my mum is not convinsed what should i do? 😮

  • Cerys says:

    I seriously want a pet rat. My dad used to have a pet hamster. Then in 2010 my dad and his hamster died. Now i have 6 pets and i want a rat for christmas so he can keep me coumpany because in winter my road is hurrendous so my friends cant come over. I will love my rat till the end.

  • Vivian E says:

    Tell your parents they are wasy to keep they donot stink as long as you clean its cage out every five days. say that you will keep it in your room research it really really well make a little booklet about them and show your parents. say that you are willing to take care of the animal and you will pay for it and DO NOT STOP ASKING it will annoy them so mucha and you are prepared to do anything for a rat. here are some care instructions thay are long but it is what you need to know:
    Your pets’ main diet should consist of rat blocks, a high-quality pellet chow formulated for rodents. Look for a brand that lists soy meal as the main ingredient. This food should be available at all times.
    The ASPCA recommends offering small amounts of fresh fruits and vegetables to your rats every day. Peas, broccoli, carrots, apples and bananas are good foods to start with, but it’s fun to try new things and find out your pets’ favorites. Rats love people food, and you can give yours the occasional table scrap, such as cooked pasta, small pieces of egg or chicken, or a bit of pizza crust. Treats need to be limited to prevent obesity.
    Do not give your rats chocolate, corn, candy, caffeinated and carbonated beverages, onions, sticky foods such as taffy and peanut butter, and junk food.
    Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. A water bottle with a drinking tube that attaches to the side of the cage is the best way to go.
    Rats do best in wire cages because they enjoy climbing, and the wire offers good ventilation. A cage that is 2’ x 2’ x 2’ will generally do for a pair of rats, but a larger space would be much appreciated. If you plan to keep more than that, you’ll need a larger cage. The floor should be solid, and a bedding of aspen or pelleted recycled paper must be provided. Do not use pine or cedar shavings, which can be harmful to your pets. If you find that your rats like to make nests, provide shredded paper towels or napkins for this purpose.
    A large, multi-level cage designed for ferrets can also make a great rat home, as can a large aquarium. If you opt for the latter, you’ll need a screen cover to provide ventilation, and will probably need to clean the cage more often to keep odor problems under control.
    Whatever type of cage you choose, don’t forget the furniture! Provide small boxes or flower pots to hide in (it’s very necessary for your rats to have a quiet place to which they can retreat) and PVC tubes for your rats to run through. You can also add a tree branch for them to climb on. Some rats enjoy running on an exercise wheel, so you may want to get yours one. Make sure that the wheel has a solid surface without wire rungs, so their tails cannot get caught while running.
    Keep in mind that a bored rat is an unhappy rat, and it’s up to you to provide the fun and games for your little guys. They LOVE toys, and you can offer yours many of the same toys that are enjoyed by parrots, including swings and ropes for climbing.
    Rats can be prone to colds, so be sure to keep the cage out of drafts. Intense direct sunlight should also be avoided, as rats are highly susceptible to heatstroke. A room kept at 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit should be just right. Make sure the cage is easily accessible for clean-up by placing it away from the wall. (And P.S., it’s especially great if you can find a location where the family gathers in the early evening—your gregarious pets will love it!)
    Like that of all rodents, a rat’s front teeth grow continuously. Provide unpainted, untreated pieces of wood, dog biscuits or safe cardboard or rawhide chew toys for your rats to gnaw on. This is crucial for keeping their teeth in tip-top condition and preventing dental problems.
    Rats are friendly and curious by nature, but you’ll need to get your pets used to you—and used to being handled. Start by feeding them small treats. When they’re comfortable with that, you can pick them up, one hand supporting the bottom, the other over the back. When you get to know each other better, don’t be surprised if your little friends want to snuggle and be petted.
    Once your rats are hand-tamed, you should let them play outside of the cage in a safe, secure area for an hour or so every day. This out-of-cage playtime is mandatory—and will keep your smart, active friends mentally stimulated and physically fit. Just be sure to supervise at all times, please.

  • Chekada9 says:

    show them that you are ready to take on the responsibility

  • Bubbles! says:

    Show that you are responsible…Do yard work, help around the house….ect. Rats are very social, they LOVE to squeak. They eat fairly well and cost around 5-$10. A rat cage should be escape proof…A rat cage cost around $10 and up. Buy odor trapping bedding (takes away smell) :).

  • Snori says:

    The best way is to show them that you’ve done your research and you’re ready to take on the responsibility. If your parents have a history of submitting to your will when you bother them enough, by all means go for it. Mine, however, tend to hate my cause a little more each time I bring it up. Make sure you’re ready to defend it every time you do.
    *are very friendly, almost never bite
    *are very smart, learn to come when called
    *are easy to clean up after (can even be taught to use a litter box with varying degrees of success)
    *don’t smell as long as you clean up after them once a week or so
    *should be kept at least in pairs, or they will get lonely
    *need to be played with for 30 minutes to an hour every day
    *NO WIRE FLOORS. These can cause the rats to get sores on their feet or even break their toes/legs/tails.
    *Wire sides are preferable (vs. tanks) for good ventilation, to prevent the buildup of ammonia. Ammonia can give rats respiratory infections.
    *At LEAST 2 cubic feet per rat, and bigger is better.
    *The bottom should be deep so they have lots of bedding to dig and build nests in, and less of it ends up on your floor.
    *I have this cage and would definitely recommend it –…
    *Carefresh is the best, but a little expensive
    *No pine or cedar, they can cause respiratory infections
    *Recycled paper and aspen are popular
    *The bedding should be different in the litter box so they have an easier time telling it apart from the rest of the cage.
    *Durability is key. You will learn this lesson very early on.
    *Wooden things last much longer than plastic things.
    *I like to use bird toys because they are usually made out of wood and metal rather than plastic.
    *Bird perches can be converted into balance beams. Be resourceful.
    * Paper towel tubes, cardboard boxes, flower pots, paper towels – lots of stuff you can just find around your house.
    *Bells and mirrors are always fun
    Food and Water…
    *Rat and mouse food
    *If you buy the kind with lots of seeds and stuff in it half of it won’t get eaten – a waste of money, and if they only eat certain pieces it’s kind of like a kid eating only the marshmallows from lucky charms. Fun, but not healthy.
    *Bottle with a sipper tube that hangs on the side of the cage. A six ounce one would be fine for two rats.
    *A food bowl that is sunk into one of the levels of the cage will prevent flips and hidden bowls and generally get on your nerves much less.
    *Rats don’t eat when they’re not hungry, so make sure food is always available to them.
    *Is necessary for the rats’ health
    *wood must be untreated
    *you can get pieces from the pet store that attach to the side of the cage so they never accidently get thrown out with the bedding.

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